Nutso

These are crazy times!


Just when I think I am almost "there," I realize I am not even close! Well, that's not exactly true, but it seems the more I get done the more there is to do.


The pix is of the garage with the majority of the stuff delivered - packing materials, ribbons, nuts, fruit!


But I am not complaining! Overall this is fun, but it can be frustrating and tiring and tough without a second pair of hands or another brain to tap into.


But the site is coming along - we are SO close; minor programming glitches, tweaks to the design. The backend, or CMS (content management system) is enormous and pre-populated with emails that all need reworking as I think/know that they could not possibly have been written by someone who speaks English as a first language, if you know what I mean. Same thing on the site - every word has to be checked. But really, these guys are amazing - what they have done just blows me away! Yes, it's taken longer than anticipated but it is being done right, and not just being thrown together. So next week, I know we will be live and then I better have the garage/workroom sorted out, because I know I am going to be slammed with orders.


Yesterday I suffered my first major glitch - I ordered 5-gallon buckets to store stuff in but the lids are wrong - they have to be pried off and fortunately, I only put one on to try out. But prying it off, I  seriously damaged my finger when the screwdriver I was using slipped and slammed my nail so hard I almost passed out! Got ice on it right away, sat on the floor in the kitchen and finally managed to get to the chair and lie down until I could stand without being lightheaded. Nasty! Two aleve didn't do much either to relieve the pain. But this morning, it just aches, is a lovely black and I know I will lose the nail eventually :( So will order different lids tomorrow - ones that come off easily! 




The little tabletop photo setup will work well - I tried it out yesterday, before I slammed myself! But first I have to make some of the mixes to photograph! And then create the gift baskets and take pix of those as well. And there is still some content to be created but can't find where I change it in the cms so will have to wait for my Indian fellows to come back to work tonight (they are 13.5 hours ahead of me) to tell me where to find it! 


On another round of antibiotics - the first days, I had a bit of reaction - itchy, blotchy face but then it went away and I haven't had any other side effects. Today is the last day of this round. I have to call Dr. Jadin in South Africa this month and check in. It's been six months now - it feels like yesterday when I found out what ails me. I am fortunate that most of the time I am just fine and have very few of "those" days and when I do, I just kick back and veg at home. But I expect I will be doing the regimen for the next year, at least. And I will go to South Africa for the next round of test and MRI's - medical tourism as I sure as hell can't afford it here. The MRI alone here is more than the cost of the plane fare, time over there and all the tests and doctor visits there. So when I find out from the doc when I need to be tested again, I will be figuring out a way to get home.

Broadleaze Organic Farm

Today I was lucky enough to visit Broadleaze Organic Farm. It is the only certified organic farm in KwaZulu Natal. We can actually see it from the verandah of Mick and Debbie's house. It is so close to town, Pieermaritzburg, but once you get into their driveway, you feel like you are miles from civilization.

Pix here

The farm is large - over 170 hectares ( about 430 acres) with about 10-15 acres under vegetable cultivation and a lot more in organic hay. The farm had been fallow for more than 40 years when Rob and Nora bought it, which made it easier to get certified. It is a huge project but they are both passionate about what they are doing.

Of course, we went for tea, stopping on the way to get a melk tert (a South African tart) to contribute. We went for a lovely walk around the farm (we were huffing and puffing as we had done a long walk in the morning, and it was very warm, although it is mid-winter) and Rob talked about their cultivation and growing methods. The nursery is under netting to keep the birds and animals (reed buck, monkeys, birds) out and there are geese and rabbits that provide organic fertilizer. Then we walked out to see the growing fields - rows and rows of lettuce and spinach (it's that time of year) - all on strict crop rotation schedules. They have 10 helpers but in order to grow the farm, they will need more trained people, which is a bit of an issue with the local population.

Back at the farm house, we were treated to tea in the lounge, looking out over the fields to our local table mountain. The air was very hazy as we are having a lot of veld (grass) fires as it is so dry. But the view is spectacular.

What a pleasure to see people so involved and passionate about what they do. I wish them lots of luck and know they will succeed, simply because of that passion.

Mystery theater...and chameleons

Last night was a lot of fun. It is so different from the way things are done in the US.

The venue for the dinner was at an exclusive boys' school called Michaelhouse, about 45 minutes from Mick, in what is known as the Midlands, a farming area with a lot of craft stores and cafes dotted around for the Midlands Meander. It was held in the pavilion above the rugby fields, and there were about 75 people seated at tables of six or seven. We went with Mick and Debbie's wine club friends, some who I remember from their wedding.

The whole idea was for the audience to solve the mystery! There were two actors who played multiple parts and there was some audience participation too. So the scene is set and the "unexpected guest" tells the tale. There are lots of clues dropped and as many red herrings! They had everyone guessing. The play was definitely South African with the accents changing and innuendos that only a South African would get. Dinner - which was very good - was served between acts. At the end, each table had to come up with the "who done it" and our table was very close! But you had to have really listened hard - and not had a couple of glasses of wine - to make the right assumptions. All in all though, it was great fun.

Today I am back at Biff's, but not before seeing a beautiful chameleon. Debbie's gardener was cutting back the bougainvillea when something hissed at him and he leaped a foot in the air, thinking it was a snake (they had caught a puff adder last week) but it was this lovely chameleon who had been disturbed. I didn't know they hissed! Debbie had her garden gloves on so rescued him. He continued to hiss for a while, but once back in the bushes, away from Mbecki, he was fine.

Tomorrow I will start preparing food for the Saturday party. I can't believe this time next week I will be back in the States - and reality.

AIDS Centre

When I was here in the early 2000's, I was quite involved with a group in Hillcrest that runs the AIDS Center, and today we decided to go for a visit. It has grown sooo much, with masses of bead and wire work, a big indigenous nursery, a sewing and craft area and of course the offices and nurses quarters. The store has so much stuff in it that it's difficult to take it all in. The young woman who runs the craft area, Paula, is still there and her Mum Jill, is also still there.

And of course there are no coincidences.

I could have gone in any day I've been here, but no, I wenttoday and they both said they had just been thinking about me! I didn't realize that the article I did in Country Life put them on the map! And Paula said she had just written to them and given them the story of how it all came about. And here I was today, thinking

about calling the magazine! Hmmm - karma.

I bought a couple of little things - Little

Travellers - that are taking the world by storm. Each one has it's own story and the Centre is shipping them all over the world. There is a doctor in Canada who has sold so many of them for the Centre that they recently received a check from him for R500,000 which is about $60,000. Not bad for tiny little beaded people. Money like that makes the world of difference to the people who come to the Centre daily for HIV/AIDS care.

It was really good to see them again.

Weekend at Clan

Clansthal is one of my favorite places on this planet. I have been going there since I was 16 and it holds so many wonderful memories. The cottage is a classic South Coast bungalow, with a wrap-around verandah and red tiled roof. It is on an acre of land and the lawn runs right down to the sand, with just a buffer of indigenous plants to shield it a bit from the wind. It's been in the Lea family since the mid-50's I believe.

Pix here

Rosemary invited me down and Zoze came too. Rosemary had to go to a 60th birthday party (very big here) so she could only come down late afternoon but John was going down at lunch time so we met him there. The weather people had been predicting a cold front coming through (thye've been saying that for days!) and it was chilly in Hillcrest when we left - I was actually wearing a sweat shirt and closed shoes! But when we got to the beach, it was stunning! Clear and warm - not hot.

Amos, the caretaker, lives on the property in his own quarters. This is still a bit of colonialism - he does everything in the house, makes sure it's ready and clean, cooks, cleans up, puts out drinks on verandah in the evening, has the coffee ready in the morning. Lovely! He has been with the Leas for eons and has AIDS, but is fortunate to be on antiretrovirals and looks very well. Initially, the government didn't have the drugs available to the local people, so John and Rosemary paid for his medication for a long time but now he is on government-provided meds. John speaks fluent Zulu, including all the click sounds, and he and Amos have these long conversations - I catch some of it but I have been gone from here for too long to really get the drift.

First thing Zoze and I did, was go down to the annex - it has three bedrooms and a bathroom separate from the house - where we sleep, and then took the dogs down on the beach. Cleo, the rottweiler is a puppy, just nine months old, and Brutus the jack Russel is about six. Cleo is so big and clumsy and she grabs Brutus by his tail and lifts him up and sort of tosses him around. But he doesn't mind and they play and rough house all the time. They love the sea and head straight in. When we went to the swimming area they went running in and Brutus actually surfs the small waves! It is just the funniest thing. We were in stitches. The beach is loaded with shells and I found several cowries - one really big one. I haven't seen that many for years.

Again in this area, we found the beaches to be much cleaner than when I was here before. One thing attributing to that, is you have to pay for plastic bags so there are very few thrown out now. But unfortunately, the Indian fishermen almost always leave trash on the beach which is often quite disgusting old bait, sometimes with hooks and lines which is so dangerous. We almost had a problem with Cleo getting hold of one, but fortunately although she got it hooked into her upper lip, the barb hadn't gone in and as I kneeled on her (the only way I could keep her down, we were able to get the mess out!). But overall, the beaches are wonderful, lined with rocky outcroppings with lovely tidepools. The sea was quite rough so we didn't swim.

Rosemary got down to the cottage around 4:30 and we went for another walk, much to the dogs joy. And then we went out to an Italian place in Scottburgh, a few clicks south. The others had pizza, and because I am not allowed dairy at the moment, I had the most delicious grilled calamari.

I slept pretty well with the sound of the surf lulling me, but woke up with a sore throat and cold - Zoze has had it for the last week so now I have it. Anyway, after a hot cuppa that we had lounging around on Rosemary's bed, I felt much better and we went for a long walk on the beach. When we got back, Amos had breakfast ready - a huge breakfast! What a pleasure!

John and Rosemary's daughters came down and had invited numerous friends - the party kept growing and growing! Michelle has three littles ones, Kelly is almost three and the twins are about 18 months - and each twin has her own nanny! Huge amounts of food were prepared - a big braai! John cooked a big filet (in the oven not on the braai) that was to die for - and I don't eat much red meat!

By the time lunch was over, there was time for quick walk on the beach before we left, so we could get home before dark. When we drove off, the party was still in full swing and probably went on till dark.

Simply Life

I've had a quiet week, half with Mick and Debbie in Ashburton and the other few days with Biff in Hillcrest.
But my friend Rosemary came up on Wednesday. I have known her since I was 12 and we have remained friends. When we meet up, even if it's been years, it's as if no time has gone by at all. She just returned from a 10 day trip to Mozambique and brought her photos - I want to go there! It is absolutely gorgeous, really tropical with no crazy Americans around :) I will see her again tomorrow as we are going to "the cottage" at Clanstal. It has always been a favorite place for me, been going there since I was 16. Zoze is coming too, and we will go down tomorrow morning for the weekend.

Yesterday, I went to tea with "the girls," friends of Zoze who she has been meeting with for almost 40 years. (They are all a bunch of gray haired ladies so I fit in.) They used to meet to play tennis, but now a lot of them have bionic parts so they are reduced to drinking tea and coffee and swapping stories! We actually went to a coffee shop in a nursery which is a common thing here, and I think a good idea. I remember going there a few years ago and it has grown - and lost the ambience, which is too bad. But it was fun nevertheless.

Today I finally got to see Biff's shop. How amazing what he does with these what look like wrecks! He has three bays in a complex and there are cars in all states of restoration. Check out the Rolls Royce he is working on! Then the other image is the Delahaye (sp) and it is mostly wood! So not only does he fix the engines, but he does wood work, metal work, metal casting, you name it, he does it. He is so talented - he pointed to a couple of big nuts that hold down the hood of the Jensen that he has almost finished and said, "This needs a locknut. I only have one so I will have to make the other." And sure enough, he will.

neighbors

One thing that really stands out for me in this country, is that there is a sense of community. And it was very apparent to me last night.

Biff has lived on this street for about eight years now. On the day he moved in, I was here and a neighbor called Angie showed up at the door with flowers. I didn't remember that but Biff did, and when we saw her the other day when we were taking the dogs for a walk, she stopped in her car and invited us over for drinks.

So yesterday evening we went next door. (I took one of the pineapples we had bought from the roadside stand the precious day.) Two other neighbor couples showed up as well, and Angie had lovely snacks and the wine and beer flowed. Everyone made me feel so at home and comfortable. There were no airs or pretenses, just honest, down to earth people. But what really struck me is that everyone there looked out for the others on the street, without any expectations. Angie was hilarious with her stories of goings on. I felt like I was in a soap opera and we even came up with a name for it - 20 Leslie Rd, Angies house. But all the joking and carrying on was in such good humor. I can't remember when I was in a situation like that - it is a completely different mind set and something that is sorely lacking in the States.

I must say that I feel that the mood and tempo of South Africa has changed - and for the better. When I was here five years ago, it felt as if everyone was on edge and there was fear in the air. Now, it doesn't feel that way at all. I have had nothing but good experiences with the locals who before seemed to carry a real chip on their shoulders. Of course, a lot of the problems have not disappeared; houses are still alarmed and robbed anyway; cars must always be locked and you have to always be aware of where you are. And, like any other country, there are places where you just do not go. But overall, it feels good.

Prices have risen a lot, but it is still about half what it costs in the States. Some things, like cars and computers and TVs cost the same, but the basics like housing and food are substantially less. For the middle class, salaries are rising and for the corrupt upper echelons, their income has gone through the roof regardless of any standards. For the poor people, times are getting tougher as food prices rise but there is an investigation now into why the prices are escalating and there is a feeling (probably a knowing) that someone somewhere is raking in a lot of money.

Every country has its issues. It's a matter of weighing them against the good that is out there and focusing on that, instead of always looking to what is not "right," and then getting on with life.

Umzumbe Beach

The sun is just lightening the morning sky in the east. I've been up for a while after falling asleep to the sounds of the surf breaking on one of my favorite beaches - Umzumbe. There is absolutely nothing like this anywhere else in the world, at least that I have seen. What a stress reliever this place is.

We left Ashburton yesterday morning early. Debbie's sister Karen was on her way back to Zimbabwe and they were dropping her at the airport in Durban so they dropped me first at Zoze and Bryan's. We loaded the car and headed out. The trip was about an hour and half, down the hill (we are at about 2000 feet) and on to the coast road heading south. Once we were out of the industrial area that surrounds Durban, just like any major city, the countryside opened up to the rolling hills of Kwa Zulu Natal. Miles and miles of sugarcane, interrupted by the primitive (by most standards) housing, some the traditional rondavels (round buildings) but most the newer rather ugly low cost concrete block tiny square structures. Many don't have toilets, just outside longdrops. But some of the newer ones have what look like prefab, ready-to-go (no pun intended) composting toilets, provided by the government.

There are a couple of small towns along the way, but no major developments. A few new houses have gone up in the past year, according to Z&B. The road winds through the hills, with tantalizing views of the water and amazing coastline. We zipped by Clanstal where Rosemary and John's cottage is and where I will go in the next couple of weeks. The Cottage!!!! we are staying at sleeps about 16 I think and is set up on the hill directly above the beach. The native bush shields it from a lot of the breeze, and a path makes its way down to the gate, through the indigenous plants that crowd it. The house itself is wonderful, open on the front with 180 degree views north to south. Absolutely breathtaking.

We went for a nice walk out to the rocks called Stabel, but it was very high tide, and the beach was too steep so we paddled but didn't swim. The water is about 75 and I really wanted to get in but it was just too rough. The beach was beautifully clean though and there were maybe three other people out. Bryan went back before Zoze and I and managed to trigger the alarm system on the house! Frantic calls and everything was ok! That is something I am getting used to again - setting and unsetting alarms around the place.

My favorite place to sleep is upstairs in the bunk room - four beds along the walls with windows directly above, looking out on the same view as the main living room. The house is three stories high, and downstairs are three more bedrooms and the game room, which saw a lot of ping pong action last night. Zoze and I had quite a battle going. Wore us out so it was an early to bed.

No one else is up yet; the surf is calmer than yesterday too. We will probably go for a drive south to Port Shepstone and the coffee plantation there. And maybe to the casino (I'll spend my big R10 allotment ($1.25) on the slots.

Farmers Market

One thing that is different - it starts at 6AM!

Biff banged on my door at 5:30 and off we went in the 1983 Mercedes 200, with Roxy in the back. It was still dark but the light was just coming in, the sky brightening and the clouds turning pink. There were already people there when we arrived and the vendors were just setting up stands. And boy, there are a lot more than when I was here last.

But what a social event it is. Even though he wasn't planning on buying anything than biltong (South African jerky, but soooo much better than the American kind) he still takes his basket (that I gave him years ago) just for show! First thing he did was make a beeline for the tent and get a table and chairs. We were the first to arrive, then Paul and Geraldine and Colin and various others who make this a weekly event. And then, the first cup of Assagay Coffee. I did an article on them for Country Life and the coffee is still just as good.

As it got lighter, I started the rounds and there is a real selection of stuff now, with quite a lot of organic produce and meat, and almost everything there was local. Produce ranged from paw paws (papayas) and grapes to beets and lettuce, organic lemons and lemonade and everything in between.

We of course had to eat so I had what is called a gorilla! It's basically an open face grilled cheese and bacon sandwich. Last time I was there, we had a choice of bacon and egg rolls and bacon and egg rolls! Now there are omelettes and crepes, the gorillas and samoosas and chilibites. I bought samoosas for lunch - can't pass them up.

By 8 the place was jammed, kids,dogs, old, young, black and white all enjoying a wonderful market, even though it clouded over and there is a chance of some rain.

More pix here

Bloooooodddd

I met with the tropical disease doctor at one of the Government hospital in Durban. The hospitals in South Africa used to be top notch but have gone downhill - fast. But fortunately I went to a clinic which although part of the hospital was separate. As this protocol that is used for treating these weird diseases is not approved by mainstream doctors, I was instructed to tell the receptionist that I was there for "a friendly visit" with the doctor, so I didn't get registered into the system.

Dr. Boysen works with Dr. Jadin who is based in Johannesburg and as it would have been a real mission to get there by today, we decided that I would see Dr. Boysen here and have the blood drawn, which would then be couriered to JoBurg. Dr. Boysen was very thorough and I had taken my medical records from Port Townsend. "Very interesting," she said and I thought, "Oh no, not again!" as this is what I heard from the doctors originally. But she was nice and I will see her again, with Dr. Jadin in Pietermaritzburg on May 26 when the blood tests are back.

Well, it seemed like the tech at the lab drew pints of blood - there were a total of 29 tests required and 12 vials of blood. Had to go have a fruit drink after that!

So now I wait.

But the weather is absolutely divine as they say here :) and I have been sitting out in the sun so am not so lily white any more. I also went to a water aerobics class this morning with Zoze and some of the "girls" and once again I was the youngest one there!!! They all noticed how much weight I have lost, which is gratifying. I don't think I have been this slim since my early 30's. Of course, not everything is in the same place...

Farmers Market tomorrow - and there will be pix.

And don't forget to visit The Organic Gang website which is now live.

Tropical Diseases

Tomorrow is a big day - I get to visit the tropical disease doc who quite possibly will find out what the hell has been bothering me for nearly three years. This is one of the reasons I came over. Blood tests and results in about 10 days, then treatment if needed. Maybe I can get to the root of the problems. At first it sounded as if I was going to have to go to Jo'burg on Friday and we were trying to figure out the best - and cheapest way to do it but then it turned out I could go to Durban for the initial consultation and have the blood drawn there which made everything much simpler, and a lot less expensive. Debbie really helped me out by using her connection to get me in so quickly.


Spent the morning with Zoze, went down to Pinetown, they bought a TV as they are more or less moved into their little place. We were going to go for a walk, but I was feeling sort of punky so came back to Biff's and worked on the site a bit. The stress that I am feeling is from Scott and his lack of paying me for the work I did. I am just so pissed off at him.


Anyway, went outside a while and picked up all the macadamia nuts that had fallen. They have to dry a bit before they can be cracked. It's quite a mission to do that - you need to find a nice little rock with a hollow in it to put the nut in, then a hammer to whack it! But they are soooo worth it.


Tonight Biff and I are going to dinner at his partner's house. I haven't met them but they sound nice. I talked to my old childhood friend Graeme yesterday. He lives in Jo'burg and hopes to be able to come down for a quick visit. He has a completely different view of where this country is going. He is very optimistic and thinks the new government will do very well. It all remains to be seen.

Sunday at Baynesfield

Woke up to the sound of the doves coo cooing as the sun rose on a beautiful day.

Mick and Debbie cooked up a great big Sunday breakfast that we had out on the verandah, even though it was a bit chilly. It was so pretty out there, we didn’t want to waste the day inside.

Today is the day I move to Biff’s house. So I packed up some of my stuff, and as I didn’t know which car he would be driving, the Morgan or the classic Mercedes 200, I put everything in small bags so it could go behind seats if it was the Morgan.

We planned to meet him and Zoze and Bryan at Baynesfield, which is an historic home that has been turned into a museum and is also the home of the Antique Tractor and Machine Club. I don’t think we would have been able to get the men to go out there if there weren’t engines to look at. It was just a half hour drive from

Mick’s and the others were already there. Beautiful drive through miles of sugar cane fields that roll to the horizon. Closer to the house, the fields were all “mielies” or yellow corn that was completely dry and ready for harvest for the “mielie meal” or grits to be milled.

The house and grounds are lovely – manicured lawns and lots of outbuilding that house all sorts of collections. One of the collections is wood working tools that are phenomenal. I have never seen such a huge collection of planes and other hand tools that I couldn’t identify. A friend of

Bryan’s, Ken Tebbit, is a master wood worker and has been collecting stuff for eons. He is 81 and as much in love with his work as he was when he was kid. He has his collection in what was the original house, all stone and very primitive but very photographic.

It was a bit of a craft fair and farmers market too, so there were lots of stands with people selling all kinds of stuff, from colloidal silver to used books to home made aprons and African bead work. And of course, lots of food. You will see in the pix, Mick is eating something called a bunny chow which is a half loaf of white bread hollowed out and filled with curry. I don’t think you will find one of those anywhere else in the world! I of course, had samoosas.

Going home, we went the old road – it has not changed at all, fantastic views over the Valley of 1000 Hills – open land, so you feel like you can breathe. So now I am Biff’s and hoping my magic jack works for Mother’s Day calls from the boys.

More pix here

Everyday Life

The last couple of days have been quiet and relaxing. Hanging around the house and working on the new site getting it ready to send out. Take a look, sign up and give me your critique. I'll be adding content continually.

Today we went to a Canon camera Road Show at the Sibaya Casino just north of Durban. It was pretty interesting and there were a lot of people there. They gave away a goodie bag with a very cool Canon vest and other odds and ends and talked about the newest Canon DSLR 500D that does video as well. Wow - I was drooling. But at least I know I am on the right track as far as video goes - it is something every photographer needs to know. So it's on my list. Canon provided a lunch as well and one of the speakers gave lots of tips for post production in photoshop - also gave us the cd with the info. So I am getting excited about shooting again, even though my camera is not behaving very well and needs servicing. But I think it will survive until I get back to the States.

Tomorrow we go to Baynesfield for a local fair, I guess you can call it. And then I am going to Biff (oldest brother) for a few days. In the meantime Debbie is sorting out an appointment with the tropical disease specialist - whether I need to go to Johannesburg to see her first, or have the blood tests here in Durban and then see her.

Old friends

Old friends are so important. And yesterday I touched bases with two of them.


Peter was my very first serious relationship when I was 16 - he was 26. Mother did NOT approve. But we have kept in touch over the past 44 years. Yesterday he phoned and I expect he will show up here at Mick's or at Biff's next week. He still lives in the house he built 40 years ago on the land he bought when we were dating. I remember chopping down the first tree to clear it.


Then Rosemary, who I went to High School with. We met at a little restaurant in Kloof and had a good natter, Catherine, her daughter and my god daughter came too, as did Zoze and another friend of Rosemary. (Not sure why she was there!) I haven't seen Catherine for ages so it was a real treat.


Then Zoze and I went shopping for stuff for her new place. Went to Pinetown, which, in the area we were, hasn't changed much, but Zoze the other side of town has really become run down and ghetto-ish. So we didn't go there! Bryan had spent the day with a friend building a cupboard for the flat and we went to pick him up. Ken has a really cool wood shop - he is 80+ - and has everything there any wood worker would love, from old planes to table saws and band saws. A lot of the wood that Bryan used is recycled from Volvo car packing crates - looked like 3/4 inch plywood. The shop is under the house - sort of an open daylight basement.


My job with Scott is basically gone - he no longer has a partner so I have no idea what he will do - or what I will do. But while I am here, I will work on the new site which I hope to put up pretty soon.


Last night, it rained like I don't think I have ever seen it rain. It was like being under a fire hose - but it lasted only about 10 minutes and today is sparkling but with a nip in the air. Winter is coming, but with it, beautiful clear, sunny days.

No more jet lag

Today I am over the jet lag and totally on to South African time - and it feels goooood.

Spent a quiet day reading on the verandah in the sun (for a short time - if I stayed too long I would get fried not having seen the sun for months!). And working on the new site, doing the tutorials and learning a lot about how it works. (That's the jacuzzi on the right.)

This evening, Mick has gone to squash where he plays in a league and Debbie is off at her landscaping class so I am here by myself. But it is fun because Susan called on my magicjack phone and we had a long talk and now I am hoping she gets hold of Janet to have her call me as we now know it works!

How amazing is that! There Susan is on the opposite side of the world, and she just picks up the phone and it is as clear as a bell - over the internet - and the best part is - it's FREE! I should be selling the things! But I am sure glad I am not there - gale warnings and the water shuttle that is in place to take people across the Hood Canal while the bridge is down, is inoperable so I can imagine all the irate people trying to commute and not able to get where they are supposed to go. But from the emails I get from the Dept. of Transportation, the work on the bridge is progressing well, but suspect that today is one of the days the contractor takes as a gimme.

Oh damn, Sibongele didn't come today (she works for someone else on Tuesdays) so I had to make my bed and clean up after myself in the kitchen. But she comes to work tomorrow so all the other dishes piling up in the scullery will be taken care of in the morning. I could get used to this.

Tomorrow I am going to lunch with Rosemary, my old friend from high school, and her daughter Catherine who is my god daughter. Can't wait.

Thunderstorms, maids and old cars

Another very loud, bright wet storm last night that woke me up. I love it – pours at night and then today was beautiful. It was a busy day. Mick has decided he is going to do car restorations again and so bought three Renault 10’s – one that runs and the other are parts cars.

So we were up early to go and pick up a car trailer and headed out to Thornville, about twenty minutes from his factory. On the way, we stopped to pick up Vincent, an Indian employee of his who would help with the onloading and offloading.

The house was down an extremely rutted, dirt road and the trailer bounced all over the place. It was a typical block house, with a lot of trash around – and two undernourished dogs, a mongrel and a Jack Russell. A young Indian man came out and I had to fend off the mongrel that wanted to jump on me and then when I pushed him away, he started to growl. Finally, the kid got the message and put him in the house. The poor little Jack Russell’s front foot looked like it had been broken and never taken to a doctor and was all twisted under. I don’t understand why people have dogs they don’t care for.

Anyway, we loaded up the cars on the car carrier – two trips – back and forth to the factory where they are being stored. Debbie was not thrilled about having them at the house – and I don’t blame her. So they will be parted out, the best body parts sent for sandblasting. As Biff is in the classic car restoration biz, he has all the contacts for the bits and pieces Mick will need.

Next it was pick up furniture and take it down to Zoze and Bryan in their new place. It’s a cute little place, but still needs work that should have been done before they moved in but they didn’t want to wait. It has a wonderful view across the valley and lots of windows and light, and small enough to easily take care of. Zoze will probably have Nesta come one day a week to clean and iron. How I miss that luxury – what is common place here. Mick and Debbie have Sibongele who comes to them four times a week, and a gardener one day a week. So you NEVER have to do housework. I can get used to that in one day – or less. I know you want to know how much she gets paid – R110 a day = about $10 a day.

Tonight, I cooked dinner and all the dishes are left for Sibongele tomorrow. I almost feel guilty – almost! She is happy to have the job, she gets paid well by South African standards, and Mick and Debbie live comfortably without having to deal with the boring, humdrum, tedious house work. That in itself is almost enough to make me stay here.

These evening thunderstorms are wonderful. The weather forecast said sixty percent chance of rain today. The sun was out all day and it stormed and rained and thundered on our way home late this afternoon. I was glad I had unplugged my computer.

As we drive around, I don’t see a whole lot of change – but I sense an easing of the fear that was really prevalent last time I was here. Whether it’s for real or my imagination I don’t know.

Travels with Susan - Sunday

I slept like a log last night - went to bed at 8:30 and woke at 9:40 - and I feel sooooo much better. Amazing how important sleep is.

Our plan for the day is lunch with Biff. So it was hurry up and run into town - Pietermaritzburg - and get fresh bread and rolls from the bakery, load up the bakkie (pickup truck) and head down to Hillcrest, about half an hour away.

Driving into town, nothing much has changed. It is still a pretty little city with lovely old homes. but there was a lot of trash alongside the roads, and Mick says the city center is awful. But we didn't go all the way into town. I checked out prices in the store and it is still considerably - make that a lot- less expensive than the U.S. And there is a large variety of goods available, more than when I was here four years ago.

Driving south, the hills stretch for miles and lots of open space dotted with the typical flat topped trees and an occasional house. The hills are still a summer green but you can tell it is turning to winter, with areas of tawny grass. Again, nothing much has changed. More traffic though, and a lot of heavies - big rigs - making the drive between Durban, the port, and Johannesburg.

Right near Biff is a railway line, and when we were living here, we went on the steam train which is used for tourist runs. As we got near the line, the puffer went by. Brought back a lot of memories.

At Biff's, where Zoze and Bryan are staying until they move into their little place, we were greeted by the two dogs and Biff, Zoze and Bryan. The house and garden look wonderful, orchids blooming in the trees, roses all trimmed back, waterfall and pond looking beautiful. Lunch was a braai (bbq) with a leg of lamb done on the grill, wine and shandies (beer and 7-up) and lots of laughs. It seems not five minutes can go by without the conversation turning raunchy! I didn't know my brothers' minds were in the gutter! And the teasing and kidding didn't stop.

It's good to be home - and "in the arms of" the family. Just to able to sit back and just be. Not have to worry about what they think of me, or what I am doing, or anything else. No judgement. I think this is what family is all about.

Travels with Susan day 2

It was wonderful to finally get to Durban and feel the warm air as I got off the plane. It was nine in the evening and about 70, warm by Port Townsend standards. The plane was parked out on the tarmac and as I walked towards the terminal, I looked up to the observation deck - and there Mick and Debbie!

Got my bags as quickly as possible and headed out of the baggage claim area - there they all were - Mick, Biff and Zoze and Debbie. I had hoped they would all come but wasn't sure if they would - or could! I really didn't give them much notice.

A quick cup of coffee and Zoze and Biff left - Zoze and Bryan are at Biff's until they move into a cottage next week, and Mick and Debbie and I headed home.

I thought I would sleep like a log, but I hardly slept at all. I think it must have been the coffee so late in the day. My mind was churning and I ended up getting up around 6:30 local time.
It's mid- afternoon now and I am trying to make it to bed time without napping.

Tomorrow we are going down to Biff's for lunch. Should be fun.

Susan Travels - Day 1

The last days were a real rush but I think I got just about everything done. I need to make a couple of calls once I am at Mick’s.

Susan was kind enough to take me to the airport on Wednesday afternoon and I had booked a room at the La Quinta Inn right near the airport as my flight was at 6:30 the next morning. On of the things that I was working on, dockside deadline, was taking up a lot of my time and I knew I had to do some proofing that night. But the hotel’s internet was not working. Fortunately we didn’t get settled in, and moved down the street to the Comfort Inn, where the internet was working but the workmen were cutting tiles right below the window – Susan finally had had enough and called downstairs at 9:30 and the workers quit!

I didn’t sleep well – I never do when I have an early flight so kept waking up to check the clock. Wake up call was at 3:30 but I was up at 3 and onto the first shuttle to the airport.

The flight was jam packed and they really pack people in now – no leg room, no food, indifferent flight attendants.

JFK is enormous and I hopped on the Airtrain to the South African Airways gate. It is a very cool terminal – reminded me of Charles de Gaulle in Paris. But the transfer was going smoothly until the check in girl couldn’t find my bag listed on the manifest. I checked right up to the time I boarded and so left not knowing if it made it.

The flight was full of screaming kids. I had an extra seat beside me but the lady one sea over commandeered it for all the baby stuff. I could tell by the passengers that I was going to Africa! Lots of colorful clothes and several of the men going to Dakar were wearing traditional clothes – the long, colorful caftans and women in the great dresses with their head wrapped in turbans.

But the poor girls at the boarding gate had their hands full, trying the get people to board in an orderly fashion, which is not the African way. Finally the one girl just said let everyone board! Mass crush and jostling. I waited, I wasn’t ready for that.

I didn’t sleep much that leg, and we had an hour on the ground in Dakar. I almost ended up with a full row but this guy comes by and wants to take all three empty seats! I couldn’t believe it! I told him he could have two but he was pissed off. But I still didn’t sleep much even though most of the babies got off in Dakar. I think I got a couple of hours.

With the swine flu panic, there were people wearing masks on the plane. I took some antiseptic wipes and wiped my area down and also did the antibiotic ointment in the nostrils routine. I expect I will be just fine.

As we prepared to disembark in Johannesburg, I couldn’t help noticing this one young woman with a baby (one of the few left from the last leg). She was dressed in Western-type clothes but she took out her long cloth, hoisted the baby on her back, tied him on and off she went. Old traditions die hard.

Customs and Immigration went smoothly – entered on my South African passport. Then I went to Baggage Services and still my bag didn’t show on the manifest and I’m going shit! I might as well kiss that off. Fortunately I always carry my camera and laptop and real valuables with me, so though there were some things in the bag that I would miss – and need, like my medical records – I wasn’t too worried. But just to make sure it was not there, I went to the carousel, and lo and behold, it was one of the first bags off. Whew. So that was relief.

My flight scheduled gave me a lot of time between flights here, probably because of Customs, so I had plenty of time, checked in and found a café. This can only happen here. The servers there were all very young black guys, and every time a young woman walked by, they would hoot and holler, lots of laughter. When I placed my order, the youngster called me Mama! And then as he called the order to the barrister, they all started chanting a thank you!

But I’ve already noticed a more western atmosphere. Most of the young people are speaking English rather than Zulu or their native tongues. But the people are still much louder than in the US, calling out to each other, not concerned how it affects anyone in their vicinity! The one guy just walked by, singing away, then texting on his blackberry. What a mixture.

So I am sitting in the departure lounge, people watching while I wait for my flight. I probably could have changed to an earlier flight, but then it would have meant Mick and everyone changing their plans to pick me up. So just let it be.

I think I will sleep well tonight – it is now 6pm here and 9am on the west coast, a nine hour difference.

Media Hype

I became rather concerned with all the news about swine flu that the media is picking up on. I've been so busy I have hardly looked at the news but it filtered into the conversation last night when "the girls" gave me a little send off at Janet's.

The air on planes is bad enough, recycled as it is, so I was pleasantly surprise when I ran into the this article that really debunks the hype. I thought you all might be interested in reading it.

I will certainly take precautions, anti-bacterial wipes for the plane etc, neosporin in the nostrils, all that, but I feel relieved now and continue my packing.

I looked at the 10-day forecast for Durban/Pietermaritzburg and it is around 75F! Whoo hoo, bare feet time. So now I can fine tune what clothes I am taking.